I'm a few days late, but I haven't missed out on the party entirely. It seems a rather lackluster Fashion Week, if I do say so myself. The shows lack punch, and the parties groove forward with predictable--yet waning--vigor. As always, I stand on the sidelines watching, waiting patiently for someone to WOW me. Perhaps it's the recession or the lingering shadow that is the untimely death of one of my fashion heroes, Lee McQueen--a remarkable designer who never failed to entertain his audiences with consistently innovative and over-the-top spectacles. Whatever it is, something seems off about New York Fashion Week this year, and I endeavor to find out why.
At first, I thought it was due to runway shows giving way to presentations, but often the presentations are a much more entertaining (and less expensive) alternative. Scott Sternberg conjured up Wes Anderson-y magic with his Boy by Band of Outsiders presentation. Preppy, cheeky fun in cinematic tableau is the best way to look at his clothes, not to mention taking in the tableau of well-known fashion editors actually smiling at his creations. The same applies to Lorick. I adore Abigail Lorick's cheeky take on the imagined uptown tea-party set. At yesterday's presentation, she unveiled "Angels and Cocoons," a shimmering display of wispy cocktail dresses and tweedy suiting popping with bright green accents, which was inspired by a Eugène Carrière painting at the Met.
I'm finding that I actually prefer presentations to runway shows. For one, you can take in the ensembles for as long as you want and notice details often lost in the whizz of the runway waltz. Also, the designers themselves are in the room with you answering questions or providing ear-shot insight about what went in to the collection. There are some exceptions to the runway rule, of course, such as Vena Cava who always display their enigmatic cool at heightened decibels. Or Karen Walker whose girls always seem to clomp confidently through the room with know-it-all literary character.
That being said, I still want whimsy and exploding grandeur the likes of which are only seen in Paris. Marc Jacobs has already mentioned a celeb-free show, which is fine by me as long as he gives us his the same killer styling theatrics (kudos to Venetia Scott and Camille Bidault-Waddington) or a return to eye-popping set design (like his S/S 2007 show). In the meantime, I look forward to a few more presentations this week and some shows that are off the NYFW grid. I'm hungry for that which is not on the radar, those who are ready to usher in a new revolution. Is it possible? We shall see.
For now, I leave you with David Sedaris expounding on the perfect accessory.
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